July, 2008
The original plan for July was to start with the body work and welding. But due to the issues with the transport of new sheet metal parts from US I need to reconsider this to some later time. So I began to restore individual functional pieces and devices.
I let zinc plated all fasteners, screws, nuts and all other things. I sandblasted all before that to remove rust.
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| You can see fasteners after galvanic zinc plating. Now we use silver high layer automotive dichromate which is comparable with yellow dichromate. The yellow chromate is not using much due to its environmental and healthy issue with Cr 6+. I m doing sorting and marking in the small boxes and bags. |
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Alternator
Alternator was completely disassembled . The aluminium case was sandblasted and painted silver. Front bearing was replaced for the new one. The defective lacquer on the stator coil was repaired. The diode bridge was repaired as well. All was assembled back. I partially measured if its working. Full test will be done in the car obviously.
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| The case was sandblasted and painted . Inner coils cleaned and with new lacquer. all fasteners were zinc plated as well as the fan and pulley. | And the result... | |||
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| Another view... | ||||
Rear End
Rear end differential was cleaned with solvent. The case was sandblasted and heat zinc palated. For corrosion protection. I painted it with urethane primer and urethane top. Although the cover was red originally, I painted it blue. I use same process for the drive shaft with new jokes. All was torqued according to specification back. Axle bearings looks ok so I just lubricate it with new grease.
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| Cleaning the surfaces. | New gasket put in place. | |||
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| I torqued the cover back according to the specification 50-75 Ft-lbs. | ...and result. | |||
Sandblasting.....
Sandblasting is an ideal and quick process to remove surface rust to bare metal. For restoration process its incredible usefully. Usage of wire brushed or sandpapers is no to effective. Also media blasting can be used on sharp corners, edges or holes where you cannot get with the wire brushes at all. The disadvantage is that you need a compressor with al lot of air and very dirty work.
As mentioned already I purchased small handy sandblasting gun. I than realized that it would not be enough to work with and I purchased a bigger 90l (93 gallon) blaster. I can admit that I blast nearly every metal pice form the car.
You can see some blasted metal parts underneath.
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| The 23 gallon blasting machine. | ||||
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| Some parts after blasting - brake cylinder, gas pedal, . | Shock covers, brake pedal, front side light,.... | |||
Brake system
I have disassembled the brake cylinder. Blasted the body and cleaned it up.
The brake booster took time to strip into two parts . Again I blasted everything and clean all gaskets.
The brake lines uses pipes with 3/16 diameter. Fittings has an US norm threads mostly 3/8" and somewhere even bigger
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| It took time to disassemble two hemispheres of vacuum operated brake booster. | And finally we succeed... | |||
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| Disassembled master cylinder | ||||
The dash
At the end of June I keep time for nice thing - the interior dash and gauges.
I removed all plastic cover, wiring, all knobs and controls and. air condition tubing.
The dash cover was sandblasted and painted with epoxy primer and than low gloss black. I do not like rattle cans with paint so I mostly use HVLP spray gun for everything.
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| Original condition of the dash after removal form the car. | Removing the cable wiring. | |||
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| Raw dash metal. It ws zinc plated originally but its rusty. Expect sandblasting the surface rust, no other repair or welding was needed. | Gauges the are little rusty but I can do anything with that. It's nearly not visible. | |||
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| Sandblasted cover with epoxy primer and acrylic black and clear on the top. | The rear window cover - painted same way. | |||