>>
We made a great progress this month I obtained the final enigne part delivery and start to work on completion quickly.
 |
 |
|||
| New hydraulic lifters from Comp cams . I soak it the engine oil and apply a camshaft brekin grease to bottom surface. | New CompCams magnum rocker arms are ready for assembly. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| Now it is time to adjust the valve train. The new hardened Magnum pushrods and rocker arms are in place. Each valve gets the correct length measured in last chapters. Settings of this adjustable rail rockers is pretty easy. You adjust the valve to zero lift at camshaft. Than slowly tighten the rtocker stud nut and wiggle with pushord with other hand. Once you feel a slight resistance than stop. Now make another half turn and the lifter is at correct preload. | Next I continued with intake gaskets. I used gasgacinch sealer for block matting surfaces and stick the paper gasket on. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| Same on the opposite side side. | It is not recommad to use the cork gaskets between the block and intake manifold. I used about 6 mm wide bead of RTV silicone sealer. I use a silicon sealer around the watter passage openings as well | |||
 |
 |
|||
| I used studs as a guide and insert the Edlebrock Performer intake and tighten it. | Next the vlave covers. No gasket sealer under the cork gasket is needed. You can see also fuel pump and oil sending unit installed at this time. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| New Holley 4160 carbureator original alternator, power steering pump and radiator fan installed. | and the result.... the ignition is in place. I used Accel distributor, ignition coil and spark plugs. The advance was set for 10 degrees for the break in. | |||
Now we tak one weekedn and the engine has been fired up. I tell you , hear the own V8 sound, you will remember it all the time. You can watch the break in video on youtube link here.
As the engine is equipped with flat tappet camshaft it is absolutely important to use a zinc additive oil called ZZDP. Unfortunately due to enviromental standarts, today's oil do not use it much and its quite hard to find the rigth brand on European market. In case of standart oil usage, the risk of demaging the cam lobes is very high and might happen in couple of thousands miles of running only. So, to be absolutely precise, I found an oil Valvoline Racing 20w50 which still have enough zinc in. I also used a break in additive as well. Firs 30 minutes of running is the critical period for proper break in. It is absolutely important to keep speed between 2000-2500 rpm.
I prepared for the break in appropriately. I put new radiator to the stand before the engine and fill it with water. I keep flowing the cold water through the radiator constantly and let it flow out the radiator dran slowly.
I used 60Ah battery with (600 A starting current) but it has a lot of work to turn with fresh rebuild engine so I put a second one in parallel.
Ifter filling with gasoline teh engine fire up immediately and we starts start ti hear the V8 rumble.
I set the correct rpm to 2300 with the help of of old 1944 German speedometr.
Unlikely after 4 minutes of running the hot wather was flushig out from the radiator a lot. We stop the engine immediatelly and start to check what's wrong. Finaly we guess this can be caused by thermostat which was opening too late and the hot water from engine block was push to the radiator under pressure and starts to go out. So next day we try to remove the thermostat and crank the engine again. After couple of minutes we were provevd this was a root cause. The engine was running and cooling without problem now. We run the breka in for 30 minutes. Meanwhile we checked the engine temeprature with infrared thermometer. Just for your information, we get these figures:
 |
 |
|||
| Příprava před prvním spuštěním. | The old 1944 German speedometer which belong to our grandfather. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| The break in additive. We used also 5 liter of Valvoline Racing 20W50 and 1/2 liter of this additive. | ...and V8is running. | |||
Now we become an upholstery specialists for couple of days. As I never do that I studied at least some intenet resources before this project. The seat frames were already prepared and painted from last year. I purchsed a Mach 1 uphosletry with original car color trim - vermillion red with black Mach 1 inserts. Here I am showing the process, I've used.
 |
 |
|||
| The box with upholstery and front bucket foams. | ||||
 |
 |
|||
| The seat frame is preapred since last year so we can begin. | ||||
 |
 |
|||
| I use a jute fabric under the foam, cut it to proper shape and connect with hog rings to the frame. | I reinforced the edge with another piece of felt textile and stick it over. The original bucket listing wire was sandblasted, painted and than clamped to the seat springs. It's good to make the measurement first for proper possitioning. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| The upholstery is connected with a lot of listing wires. I purchased a straight hard steel spring wires in 2 and 3 mm diameters. Than cut it in proper lengths and bend the ends under the heat. | ... and painted black for corrosion protection. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| Here are the hog rings pliers. The small ones are crap. The big ones are better but is more difficult to operate with them in tight places. | I spray the foam surface with glue to stick it to jute fabric. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| The foam is sticked to the frame. | And the wires are clamped with hog rings through the foam It went quite easily for the bottom part but the backrest was a nightmare. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| The upholstery is put inside out. The good idea is to heat it in the sun or at stove. It gets soften and its more easily to form. | The listing rods are put into the sewed sleeves and clamped to the seat. I find the best way to start with bottom back side. Then top two wires, than botom sides and finally clamp front bottom wire. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| Trimming from bottom. | The vinyl needs to be formed into proper shape with hands. Than cut the holes for the screws. I would recomand to screw the small bolts in teh holes before installation of upholstery. Its more easy to locate the bolt head rather than hidded hole under the vinyl cover. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| The backrest is made in very similar way. It was even more important to correctly position the holding rod to the frame. | .Clamping the rods through the foam was fairly difficult on the backrest The foam was so thick I can hardly clamp it through. | |||
 |
 |
|||
| The upholstery installation is similar. I started with top back wire, then front side wires and than bottom back rod. | ||||
 |
 |
|||
| The rear seat is made of two pieces. | Upholstery replacement take me about three days of continuous work. The final result is presented here. I guess its perfect for the first time job. | |||
The new control arms were painted with thin layer black from factory. I decided to paint it for better corrosion protection with 3 layers layers of silver Hammerite paint.
 |
 |
|||
| Spraying... | Finished control arms and steering components. | |||
 |
||||
| And new rear leaf springs same way. | ||||