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January, 2009

s promised, I write some news about our progress in January.

The bodywork begins

My approach is to do the inner sheet metal work by myself and than continue with the help of a specialist. I need to remark that I never work with sheet metal much so this is my first job.
Also I have limited resources to specific tools in my workbench. I have following tools available.

  • big sheet metal scissors.
  • handy sheet metal scissor for thin steel.
  • Top bench drill, handy drills,
  • Big tool bench grinder, angle grinders.
  • big electric straight grinder
  • small pneumatic grinder. - small and handy
  • pneumatic air hammer for cutting the welds
  • couple of hammer and clamps , pliers of various sizes.
  • Mig welder

    • Trunk floor and tail light panel

    I started with the removal of the tail light panel, It went pretty easy out as it was rusty a lot. I drilled about 20 factory spot welds in the subframe connection. Than I used a chisel to remove the rest. The trunk floor was no longer existing. I decided to replace complete panel. Again some drilling of spot welds was needed. I need to partially dismantle the transition panel to allow to insert the new one. I grinded the frame rails for the rest of factory spot welds. Thank I have sandblasted the inner side of the subframe rails. I painted rust proof Hammerite paint.

    Cut rear tail light panel. This is what remains from the trunk floor.
    The view of the back side now.

    Left inner wheelhouse

    I decided to keep the inner wheelhouse. The outer will be replaced later. I cut part of the quarter panel and to have better access. But not too much tp still see the line for proper future replacement.

    I made the most of patch templates from carton paper and trial fit before cut the metal piece. This is lower lip of the wheel house. I tack welded in place.
    The view for entire part. I smoothed and grinded the welds for finished look.
    View from inside for th repaired wheelhouse.

    Right inner wheelhouse

    I repaired the other side same way. However the back needs only small patch.

    Condition before repair. Aligned the patch in place.
    And the rear side after welding and grinding. ... an the front side(...I went out of gas in the welder, thats why it's so burned:-)

    Rear frame rails

    The rear frame rails are in fairly good condition. The cross connection requires about two 10 cm patches on each side. The worst under was on front side under the right floor close to the leaf spring eye connection. I decide to reinforce from inner side.

    I used heavy gauge 2,5 mm steel. Thee original steel thickness is about 2,3 mm (13 gauge). I used stop welds to the original frame . The leaf spring connection was reinforced as well.

    Rear left shock connection.

    The connection of the shock under the fool was cracked. Its made form two metals . Thinner bottom - about 1,3 mm and top about 2 mm. The whole repair process is described bellow.

    I need to cut the cavity cover for better access. The view of the cracked panel I formed the shape and sandblasted the cavity where I can reach.
    I clamped the new 2mm thick patch slightly overlaps the original steel. Than I plug welded the patch. I do no thave so big drill bit for the shock hole so I used couple of small holes in circle shape and than cut it through and than file the round shape
    The down side and the shock absorber test connection. I tack welded the back of the cavity cover back.
    And make full seam weld in about 1 inch stripes and allow panel to cool and not deforming after heat. And finished look after some grinding.

    Thats all for January. I am going also for some relax and skiing holiday next week. In February we continue with floor repairs.